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« on: December 18, 2005, 09:53:04 am » |
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Chalice of the Void is one of the most powerful cards in Vintage right now, and will remain to be as long as Workshop is unrestricted.
The next section is for players who are new to Vintage, or who are new to the current metagame. Don't read this if you know basic things about Chalice:
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Chalice of the Void XX Artifact Chalice of the Void comes into play with X charge counters on it. Whenever a player plays a spell with converted mana cost equal to the number of charge counters on Chalice of the Void, counter that spell.
Chalice's huge selling point is the fact that by using Mishra's Workshop (Land, Tap to Add 3 to your mana pool. Spend this mana only to play artifact spells) you can put down a chalice for 1 or 2 quite easily, and have your own deck nearly immune to a Chalice set for those numbers by placing alot of artifacts in your deck at casting costs higher than 1 or 2.
Or, having Goblin Welder to get those artifacts countered, and weld them in for artifacts with different casting costs (usually Moxes), or ones that have already been in play (Like welding out a Mana Vault for a Sol Ring with Chalice for 1 out, if you really wanted to).
Chalice serves as severe disruption to your opponent in many ways. For one, chalice for 0 on the play (that is, the first turn of the game, where you're going first, and your opponent is 'on the draw', that is, going second) is killer. The reason for this is because you drop all your moxes, then play chalice for 0. Your opponent then can't play his own moxes, and is stuck at (usually) 1 mana, while you're at 2 or 3, and will be at 3 or 4 next turn.
Most cards, which are spells, in Vintage have an 0-3 cc (casting cost), and therefore, Chalice is very good at hindering your opponent. For instance, if you know you're playing against an opponent with a combo deck, you want to set Chalice at 1, because almost 50% of his deck is most liikely spells set at 1 cc, while another 30% is set at 0. Your deck, however, is not, and so while 7-8 out of 10 of his draws are casting costs of 0, or 1, your draws are useful, as you can actually play the card.
In this cast, Chalice actually functions as a one-sided perma-time walk. Chalice for 1 is usually the most effective at doing this, as it stops cards like Brainstorm and Ancestral Recall, as well as alot of fast-mana that would have your opponent able to play more expensive cards, like Mana Vault, Sol Ring, and Tinder Wall or Chromatic Sphere (in Belcher).
On a completely different note, Chalices should always be played low to high, never high to low, especially with 2cc and 1cc chalices.
The reason for this is because if you have a Chalice out with two counters on it, and you try to cast a Chalice with 2 mana (i.e., a potential 1 counter Chalice) your Chalice with two counters on it will COUNTER that Chalice.
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THE GRAIN (as in, this is how it's thought to best play Chalice, and you better have a really good reason for going against it)
THE GRAIN No. 1:Â Chalice should be played at a casting cost where it cripples your opponent more than it does you.
EXAMPLE:Â Belcher versus Ubastax.
Cards in JD's Two-Land, Non-Blue Belcher that get taken out by Chalice for 1:
4 Chromatic Sphere 4 Goblin Welder 4 Tinder Wall 4 Dark Ritual 3 Duress 1 Mana Vault 1 Sol Ring 1 Demonic Consultation 1 Vampiric Tutor 1 Imperial Seal
That's TWENTY FOUR CARDS. That's nearly HALF THE DECK.
Let's see how many cards get taken out in Ubastax with Chalice for 1 out:
4 Goblin Welder 2 Gorilla Shaman 1 Mana Vault 1 Sol Ring
Eight.
It's a good idea for Ubastax to play Chalice for 1 against Belcher because the likelihood for Chalice for 1 to hurt Belcher more than it hurts Ubastax is THREE TIMES as great. That is, 300%.
Even with the Green Splash that seems to be all the rage these days, the numbers only go up to TEN (we add in Crop Rotation and Fastbond).
It's still 240% more likely that Chalice for 1 will hurt Belcher more than it will hurt Ubastax, ESPECIALLY, if Ubastax gets out Null Rod, Gorilla Shaman, Sol Ring, or Goblin Welder I.E., cards that either accelerate Ubastax's goal in mind before the Chalice comes down (Welder, Sol Ring), or cards that cripple what Belcher can do apart from the Chalice for 1 (Null Rod, Gorilla Shaman, umm...the rest of the deck, etc).
THE GRAIN no. 2:Â Chalice should be played against key cards cc in the opponent's deck.
EXAMPLE:
Chalice for 3 should be played against a deck running Yawgmoth's Will and a single Rebuild with no Hurkyll's Recall. Both are threats to you that need to be countered. Yawgmoth's Will wins them the game, and Rebuild gets them to the point where they can win the game (as your road-blocks [Null Rod, Chalice for 1, Chalice for 0, Chalice for 2] are suddenly removed).
Even if your opponent has functional cards that you KNOW they have, via let's say Duress or something, but they don't have likelihood of drawing into, you should play Chalice to STOP them, not only to slow them down, which incidentally, is the grain no. 3.
THE GRAIN no. 3:Â Chalice should be played not as a Speed Bump, but it should be played as a ROAD BLOCK, unless you have another Chalice in your hand.
EXAMPLE:
Chalice should NOT be played at 0 against Fish on the first turn when you are on the play. You should save Chalice to be set at 1, or 2, as it cripples most of their deck. Even if you somehow know that they have Mox Pearl AND Mox Sapphire in their hand, Chalice should be saved to play at Chalice for 2, because it will cripple them MORE than playing it to slow them down.
Let's play out both scenarios.
Stax: Workshop, Mox, Mox, Chalice for 0, Sphere of Resistance, burn for 1. Fish: Darn, now I can't play the Mox Sapphire in my hand. Tundra, go.
(I'm also throwing Sphere into this, just to make it more absurd how Chalice for 0 is a BAD PLAY against Fish).
Stax:Â Crucible (or some other irrelevant lock piece), PLUS Welder. Fish:Â Tundra or some other land, little guy, go.
Stax:Â Land, Tutor, or something else irrelevant for the turn (he didn't have an amazing starting hand). Fish:Â Land, attack with little guy, play 2cc GUY WHO IS AN ACTUAL THREAT.
Stax:Â Land, Play the thing they tutored, and maybe kill the first actual threat. Fish:Â PLAY ANOTHER 2cc GUY WHO IS AN ACTUAL THREAT.
Stax:Â Something irrelevant again. Fish:Â ANOTHER 2cc THREAT.
This continues, Fish player wins because Staxman played Chalice as as a speed bump, hoping he would draw into something that would finish off the Fish player instead of just doing it now.
OTHER SCENARIO:
Stax: Workshop, Mox, Mox, Chalice for 2. (They have a pointless sphere in their hand now). Fish: Land, Mox Sapphire, TWO LITTLE GUYS (because you just took out the two 2cc threats in their hand).
Stax:Â Land, Crucible PLUS Welder, PLUS casting of the Sphere. Fish:Â Â Draws into a 2cc pointless card, land, some little guy, attack.
Stax:Â Land, Tutor, play something relevant, Fish:Â Look at the 3-4 dead cards in his hand.
THE GRAIN No. 4:Â An Important Chalice should NOT BE WELDED OUT unless it allows you to win the game in the same turn, UNLESS you can play the Chalice for the same number.
Also, for the exception, if the important Chalice number is at 1cc (which is all too often is), you should cast ANOTHER Chalice for 1, (as on the stack, the chalice has the casting cost of 2), and THEN Weld the Chalice out (in case you weld it, then the chalice you cast is countered).
This was the hardest aspect of playing Ubastax early on for me. I would constantly want to weld out Chalice for 1 for a Stax, and then play two more Welders, or a Welder and a Shaman, only to see that my opponent was holding 5+ 1cc spells.
Actual Discussion:
The striking thing to me, is that with all our knowledge of how Chalice of the Void works, I see (but certainly more hear) of players playing Chalice as the wrong numbers.
For instance, in Smennen's Chicago(?) [Sorry, I forgot which one it exactly was] Report, Steve was playing Grimlong, and his opponent was playing a deck with Chalice in it. His opponent played Chalice for 2 without having a Chalice for 1 or Chalice for 0 out. I'm not sure what turn this was on, but we can assume it wasn't turn 1 when he was on the play which would be, probably, in the history of Vintage, the worst play ever.
So let's assume that it was on turn 2 or 3. Maybe Smennen can help us out with this.
Chalice for 2 was a mistake because, as Steve said in his report, Chalice for 1 does ALOT to hurt him, as well as Chalice for 0, (even if the Chalice player is on the draw, Chalice for 0 hurts because the Grimlong player can't replay Lotus from his graveyard via Will, or put down any more fast mana for the remainder of the game, or until they bounce Chalice).
We can only be left to guess why the Chalice player played a Chalice for 2. He should have played it for 1. Even if his only source was Academy, and he had out 10 Artifacts and would take 8 burn, and was at 12 life, the correct play would have been Chalice for 1 because it takes out most of Grimlong's spells (as most of them are set at 1 cc). The only exception to this, of course, would be if the Grimlong player mystical tutored for Hurkyll's Recall, but in this particular instance, Smennen did not do that.
My guess (as well as many others) is that the Chalice player did not have a full understanding of either the way Grimlong works, or the way Chalice works, and so he set it at a wrong number.
Another blunder that's been brought to my attention recently is the eagerness to play Chalice for 0 on the play against ANY DECK.
This is by no means a rule to Vintage, as some make it out to be.Â
For instance, in the Ubastax thread, some Ubastax player played Chalice for 0 AGAINST FISH. Fish only has (at least, most Fish builds) THREE cards in their entire deck with a casting cost of 0. Ubastax has 6.
Even if you slam down two moxes on the play, then Chalice for 0, you have more opportunity of actually drawing into a 0 mana artifact than your opponent if he doesn't have ANY in his hand. Moreover, Fish can't abuse fast mana like other decks, so why would you play a Chalice for 0 anyway? Chalice for 1, or more likely 2 would be umpteen times more effective. Chalice for 1 AND 2 would almost neutralize Fish completely:
So the real question is, if you actually can slam down two moxes on the play, why wouldn't you chalice for 1 instead of playing something else in addition to a chalice for 1?
I wouldn't even do Chalice for 0, Chalice for 1, Chalice for 2 against Fish if I could. Like, let's say I had the opening hand of:
Chalice x 3, Workshop, Sol Ring, Mox, Mox.
I'm on the play.
I'd keep that hand like crazy. You then proceed to go: Chalice for 1, Chalice for 2, GO.
Next turn you can play whatever you just drew, or cast Chalice for 3. You most likely want to hardcast crucible before you go ahead and just play Chalice for 3.
Chalice for 3 is almost exponentially better against Fish than Chalice for 0. Fish actually runs stuff at the 3cc slot that could be harmful to you, and if you're playing against OFM, you want to take out Old Man so they can't steal your Welders.
You're eventually going to have to sac some Chalices to Stax so you can either play Welder or Crucible (crucible would be the far more likely scenario, as you would want to keep that chalice at 1 going strong) and eventually get out some kind of draw engine (whether it be in 5c, Thirst for Knowledge, or Uba, Bazaar).
The real question I have for the community is this:
If you have a pet deck, even if it's a huge archetype like Oath, Slaver, or Gifts, what Chalice number do you think is most detrimental to you?
I would really like to have a comprehensive guide to Chalice against certain decks.
I already explained how Chalice for 2 is really good against Fish, and Chalice for 1 is almost as good, while Chalice for 1 nearly wrecks Belcher, and Grimlong (while the next best thing is Chalice for 0.)
Meanwhile...
5c Stax has a ton of 1cc spells, and therefore, is much more hesitant to play Chalice at 1cc. Why, exactly does Chang's 5c Stax have Chalice in the sideboard? Is it for stopping combo? Wouldn't Null Rod be a better choice, then, or is it that the 5c deck depends on Karn and Trisk to win so badly than it can't deal with Null Rod? I'm not totally understanding why Chalice is even run in the SB, and maybe someone can help me out with that.
Gifts I've found that the best numbers to set Chalice at are (in the early game [turns one-two]) 2cc, and (in the mid game turns three-five) 3cc.
It depends on if you're playing against Brassman Gifts or Meandeck Gifts, and also what deck you're actually running (like, if you're running oath, you don't want to set it to 2cc very often).
Against Meandeck, I've found that setting it at 2cc is more beneficial than 2cc is against Brassman's build, and against Brassman's build, I've found 3cc is more effective. Because I play against Brassman's build more, I am a HUGE fan of the 3cc Chalice.
I've posted this almost entirely from the perspective of Ubastax. I'd be fun to also get some feedback on a deck that doesn't run workshops but runs chalices, like Oath.
Please, discuss Chalice of the Void, and the best way to use it against certain decks. This should be a lively discussion, and I'm all for some critism of my assessment of how to use Chalice most effectively.
Thread on.
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