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bedafile
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« on: March 13, 2005, 10:30:05 am » |
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I recently purchased a Unlimited Mox Jet from Ebay, I'm going to keep the auction link a secret to protect the buyer, and I suspect it could be a fake.
First the seller has a feedback of about 1500 with only 2 negatives in his 5 year span of selling on Ebay. The seller was eligible for free buyer protection as well. And so far the seller has been very cooperative with the sale and me accusing the card of potentially being counterfeit, plus he has already offered a refund as well.
So more about the card. I first suspected it was a fake because it was lighter (weight not color) than the other cards shipped with it to protect the mox. I then compared the card in weight and thickness to other Unlimited power I own and although I don't own a scale the card feels lighter to both my roommate and myself. I eventually did a bend test on the card and fortunately it passed! The only suspect thing in the coloring of the card would be that the letters in the text box are not as bold as the letters on my other unlimited power.
So to simplify here's really what I want to know, are there unlimited cards out there that vary in weight and color. Also are there fakes that pass the bend test as well? Should I try to have PSA authenticate it? If I get it graded how hard is it to take out of the PSA holder?
Thanks in advance for the input. Also I'll be happy to provide some scans if people need to see them, I just have to hook up my scanner. John
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I can't belive I ate the whole thing
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Methuselahn
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« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2005, 11:04:09 am » |
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Personally, I wouldn't rely on holding it with your hand, etc., to see if it weighs lighter. The human hand isn't anywhere near precise enough of a measuring tool for this type of problem, especially knowing that a person may be impartial.
Scans would really help, you'd probably get more feedback.
Moxen are old, and thus have gone thru alot of wear, I've seen alot lighter moxen (color) but the key is seeing the color inconsistancies throughout to recognize a fake.
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TR
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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2005, 03:59:22 am » |
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Here http://www.apathyhouse.com/mtg/fake/index.php is a very good guide to fake MtG cards complete with examples and guides to testing them. I personaly would check the print with a magnifying glass; there are very few printers that can replicate the "circles" style printing pattern. Also try to find the thin blue line on the edge (from the plastic/glue that keeps the front and back together). If it passes these two tests I'd say it's a real card.
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Guardian
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« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2005, 05:16:56 pm » |
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One thing you should be aware of is that if the card spent a lot of time under light, then colors may have degraded due to chemical reactions. Usually, the bend test, used as a last resort, is pretty consistent on proving if the card is fake or not.
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A winner is you.
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Tristal
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Knocks you all down
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« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2005, 10:46:43 pm » |
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Having read TR's link, I strongly suggest not doing the blacklight test for cards from 4th Edition to determine if they're fake. Using it to determine if cards are Alternate 4th, however, is highly recommended.  I've been told the 99.9% sure way to find a fake is to use a micrometer to find the thickness of a real card and compare it to the potential fake.
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No longer a DCI Level 1 Judge. Just a guy who likes rules knowledge.
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orgcandman
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Providence protects children and idiots
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« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2005, 01:13:24 am » |
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one of the best ways for testing is to hold it up to a semi-strong light source. You should be able to see through the card. Also perform this test with another power card from UL to establish a benchmark. If it passes both the bend AND light tests, you're either looking at a clever fake, or you're looking at the real thing.
Thickness comparisons are usually also good indicators, as has been said.
One random piece of info: usually fakes are sold in NM+ condition due to the fact that they wear out faster than regular cards. "played" fakes are heavily faded on the front, but will show little to no wear on the back. There are other little indicators as well....how did the seller possess the card in the first place, etc. If it's a reputable dealer, it's very unlikely that it's a fake, as they will usually have processes to check for this.
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Ball and ChainCongrats to the winners, but as we all know, everyone who went to this tournament was a winner Just to clarify...people name Aaron are amazing
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Necrologia
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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2005, 01:16:24 pm » |
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Being able to see through a card doesn't prove that a card is fake/real. The idea is to see how blotchy it is. Put a powerful enough light behind a real magic card and you can see through it. Real cards are a uniform texture. Rebacks will look much different due to the sanding and regluing process. I was going to post a link to some pictures but it looks like Virtual took em down. If you're really curious I guess you could try sending him a PM.
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This space for rent, reasonable rates
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SpencerForHire
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« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2005, 08:24:32 pm » |
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My rule of thumb is that if it is that difficult to prove its fake or real, I wouldn't be overly concerned. I'm pretty sure a judge isn't going to have a micrometer onhand. Of course, I'm not exactly the most unconventional person. 
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Team Technology - Strictly better than our previous name.
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worthawholebean
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« Reply #8 on: March 22, 2005, 03:20:02 pm » |
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Being able to see through a card doesn't prove that a card is fake/real. The idea is to see how blotchy it is. Put a powerful enough light behind a real magic card and you can see through it. Real cards are a uniform texture. Rebacks will look much different due to the sanding and regluing process. The idea is that you're supposed to see through a real card. You have to benchmark it with a real card to see if the same amount of ligh shines through.
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bedafile
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« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2005, 10:23:41 am » |
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I compared the card to some other cards from unlimited and the same amount of light shines through however, the pattern in the paper is different. Its much clearer than the other unlimiteds I compared it to. The real ones have more of a cloudy appearance, and the jet looks like a piece of paper, however after inspecting the card with a magnifying glass the print texture appears the same.
I'm still not too sure since to me the light test was a big time fail and the bend and print test were passes. I want to send it to PSA for grading however will I be able to remove the card from the holder to play with?
Thanks for the input. John
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I can't belive I ate the whole thing
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Necrologia
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« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2005, 01:20:51 pm » |
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Yeah, you can un PSA-ify a card but I don't see why you'd want to. If it turns out to be real, sell it and buy another. People pay more for PSA graded cards for obvious reasons.
@worthawholebean:
I did say light shines through a real Magic card. The reason I phrased it the way I did is that you do need a moderately strong light. I'd hate to be responsible for someone tossing a real card because the light they were using was on the weak side.
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Aaron
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« Reply #11 on: March 25, 2005, 01:06:15 am » |
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I compared the card to some other cards from unlimited and the same amount of light shines through however, the pattern in the paper is different. Its much clearer than the other unlimiteds I compared it to. The real ones have more of a cloudy appearance, and the jet looks like a piece of paper, however after inspecting the card with a magnifying glass the print texture appears the same.
I'm still not too sure since to me the light test was a big time fail and the bend and print test were passes. I want to send it to PSA for grading however will I be able to remove the card from the holder to play with?
Thanks for the input. John If you post a detailed scan, we can help you out, although if you saw the same printing pattern, it's extremely unlikely that it's a fake.
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M A N A D R A I N
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ProZachar
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« Reply #12 on: March 25, 2005, 09:24:27 am » |
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Yeah, you can un PSA-ify a card but I don't see why you'd want to. If it turns out to be real, sell it and buy another. People pay more for PSA graded cards for obvious reasons. I'd say sell it and get another only if it comes back as at least a 7. I don't know that many people would pay a premium to get a 6 or lower.
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